Frequently asked questions

It depends on the day, the season and where you are. The fastest way to get a real answer is to call — we can tell you the next available window while you are on the phone, rather than making you wait for a callback.

TODO — confirm the diagnostic fee, whether it is waived when the repair is approved, and any after-hours difference, then replace this answer. Please do not publish a number that has not been confirmed.

The brand and approximate age of the system, what it is doing (or not doing), when it started, and whether the thermostat has power. If you can reach the outdoor unit safely, note whether the fan is spinning. That is usually enough to bring the right parts on the first visit.

The most common causes are a tripped breaker, a dirty air filter that has frozen the indoor coil, a failed run capacitor in the outdoor unit, or low refrigerant from a leak. Check the filter and the breaker first. If the indoor coil has iced over, switch the system to fan-only for an hour to thaw it before anyone works on it.

It should never need it. Refrigerant is not consumed the way fuel is — it circulates in a sealed loop. A system that needs topping up has a leak, and adding refrigerant without finding the leak just pays for the same repair every season.

Comfort depends on humidity as much as temperature. Many homes are comfortable around 75–78°F once indoor humidity is in the 45–50% range, and each degree higher reduces run time. If your home only feels comfortable at very low settings, humidity or airflow is usually the underlying problem.

That pattern — called short-cycling — usually means the furnace is overheating and tripping its limit switch, most often because of a clogged filter or restricted return air, or that the flame sensor is dirty and the burner is dropping out shortly after ignition. Replace the filter first, then have the sensor and airflow checked.

Heat pump supply air is cooler than furnace air — typically around 90–100°F, which is below body temperature and can feel cool at the register even though it is heating the house. Periodic defrost cycles, where the outdoor unit steams and the indoor fan pauses, are also normal in cold, damp weather.

Once a year for a single-function system (cooling or heating), and twice a year for a heat pump or a system that does both, since it runs year-round. Manufacturers commonly require documented annual maintenance for warranty coverage — check the paperwork for your equipment.

A one-inch filter typically needs replacing every 1–3 months, sooner with pets or during heavy use. Thicker four- or five-inch media filters usually last 6–12 months. A filter that is dark across its whole surface is overdue, and a restricted filter costs you capacity and efficiency immediately.

Age, repair history and the cost of the specific repair drive the decision. A system past 12–15 years with a major component failure (compressor, heat exchanger) is usually worth replacing; a newer system with a failed capacitor or contactor is worth repairing. You should always be given both numbers and left to choose.

TODO — list the payment methods the business actually accepts (card, check, ACH, financing) and replace this answer.

TODO — confirm whether financing is offered, through which lender, and what the qualification process is. Do not publish rates or terms that have not been confirmed in writing by the lender.